I guess this is the best-known case of false claiming but there must be many other ascents that are generally accepted but where we only have the climber’s/climbers’ word for it. In the early days climbers were gentlemen and as such their word was taken to be good enough (unless perhaps you were an absolute blunder like Aleister Crowley). A notorious example which I remember reading about not many years later was Maestri’s claimed first ascent of Cerro Torre.
And it’s ironic that Peary so vociferously attacked Cook’s claim to have reached the North Pole when it’s now generally accepted that he didn’t get there either (but maybe DJT is even now preparing an executive order that will make it official that he did).
Yes but on the whole we accept each others word. (Apart from the Chinese on Everest N ridge 1960. And that one does seem to be genuine.) After all, the main person you'd be fooling is yourself. If there were lots of fakers you'd expect more than just this one of them to have got found out
Great story, as is that of the real first ascent. Great book. For most if not all, climbs are done for the sake of the climb. Bonatti also suffered from naysayers.
1890s the locals refused to believe Lily Bristow climbed Zinal Rothorn (with Mummery) No they must have mistakenly climbed something much smaller... Chinese on Everest v clearly for propaganda, they kept warm by reading Mao! One reason for disbelief I think along with straight racism.
It was an interesting topic, thanks.
Great story. Thanks especially for footnote #1. A lot of us over here agree.
I guess this is the best-known case of false claiming but there must be many other ascents that are generally accepted but where we only have the climber’s/climbers’ word for it. In the early days climbers were gentlemen and as such their word was taken to be good enough (unless perhaps you were an absolute blunder like Aleister Crowley). A notorious example which I remember reading about not many years later was Maestri’s claimed first ascent of Cerro Torre.
And it’s ironic that Peary so vociferously attacked Cook’s claim to have reached the North Pole when it’s now generally accepted that he didn’t get there either (but maybe DJT is even now preparing an executive order that will make it official that he did).
Yes but on the whole we accept each others word. (Apart from the Chinese on Everest N ridge 1960. And that one does seem to be genuine.) After all, the main person you'd be fooling is yourself. If there were lots of fakers you'd expect more than just this one of them to have got found out
Great story, as is that of the real first ascent. Great book. For most if not all, climbs are done for the sake of the climb. Bonatti also suffered from naysayers.
1890s the locals refused to believe Lily Bristow climbed Zinal Rothorn (with Mummery) No they must have mistakenly climbed something much smaller... Chinese on Everest v clearly for propaganda, they kept warm by reading Mao! One reason for disbelief I think along with straight racism.